Traitor (The Movie)

I’m not sure if this is still playing the US, but it just made it to Abu Dhabi. Michael and I love walking to the Al Mariah movie theater. It’s not in a big mall, so it’s older and is frequented by locals. Last night we saw Traitor with Don Cheadle and I highly recommend it. I’m not going to give anything away that you probably haven’t seen on a preview, but I wanted to share my experience. It’s not the first FBI/ terrorism movie I’ve watched and it may not even be the first one I have watched here, but during the movie, it hit me; my perspective will never be the same. In the beginning they keep using the Arabic word shukran. It’s not translated, but I know that it means Thank You. I use this phrase frequently! Muslims praying on carpets and the repetition of “Allah Akmed” (not sure if this is the correct spelling, but it is how the prayer calls begin) looked and sounded very familiar. Right away the movie felt too close for comfort. Scenes depicted people I see every day, except now they were holding guns. Had I watched it in the US, I wouldn’t have had anything to compare it to because like most movies, you usually end up seeing a stereotype. Either way, it made me squirm in my seat. The movie is excellent and Don Cheadle plays his role wonderfully, making it difficult to determine who the “bad guys” are. His character challenges the stereotype which is why I encourage you to see it. When the credits rolled and I turned left to grab my purse, I was looking at an Arab Muslim in the eye and couldn’t help but wonder what he was thinking. Stepping outside the theatre, I heard the now familiar sound of Arabic and even though I feel safe and far away from suicide bombers, I also know that I am not home. If you’ve seen it, please let me know what you think!

Abu Dhabi Responds to Obama

We all watched as CNN reported on people’s reactions around the world when the election was called. We were home and just getting up, since it was around eight o’clock in the morning. I’ve never really paid too much attention to elections in other countries, so it was interesting to see how in tune everybody was over here. As Americans, we are not used to openly discussing politics with strangers or even friends, but here, as soon as you tell anybody (especially cab drivers) you are from the US, the first thing they ask is “Obama?” I always respond with a “yes” and a smile. Even before the election was officially called, one of the porters at the Hilton shook Michael’s hand and congratulated him in the elevator. Since I was standing there with my belly, we assumed that it was because of the baby until he said something about Obama and how the first round was over. He was referring to the predictions being made that Obama would win. We were surprised, although we shouldn’t have been. The morning of the election, Michael went straight to work where he was congratulated three times. Ahmed even said, “He kicked his ass” which cracked me up. Everybody kept saying “congratulations” which for me seemed strange for this occasion. I’m used to being congratulated on personal accomplishments like graduating or getting a promotion. Michael hadn’t shared his political views with his local coworkers, so they assumed he would be happy with the results. What if we had hoped for a McCain Presidency? Being that Michael is the only African American in his office I asked him if others were being congratulated as well- they were. Eric (British) and Darcy (Czech Republic) were just as excited about the elections as we were. They hosted debate parties and had us over to replay Obama’s acceptance speech. I told Michael to come home to listen to the live version. They don’t have any TVs at his office and I didn’t think he should miss this historic moment. We watched in bed teary eyed. Nevertheless we didn’t want to pass up on the opportunity to watch it again on a bigger flat screen. So there we were in Abu Dhabi, four Americans and two Europeans, eating pizza, drinking champagne, and listening to Obama. Some things you just never forget.

Is Obama a Muslim?

Let me start off by saying that I don’t fully know the answer to this question, meaning I can’t speak for what is in another human’s heart, but what I have learned after living here, is what being a Muslim actually entails. I feel like the word “Muslim” is being thrown around without any consideration for its implications and how much goes into practicing this faith. Apart from believing that there is no God but Allah, Obama would have to sneak away 5 times a day for prayer. He should do this in either a mosque (kinda tough for him these days) or on a prayer mat facing Mecca. This isn’t a quick Hail Mary he can mumble under his breath. He would need to fully wash himself from head to toe before praying in the prescribed way including ritualistic movements. Oh and by the way, these prayers don’t count if there is a woman in sight. That secret service that is with him every waking second of every day is surely keeping one big secret! Then there’s the pork thing, and he’s not from the south so maybe I can give him that one. Although his past month near the famous North Carolina BBQ must have been torture! But I swear I saw him drinking water during the Presidential Debate. Wasn’t that in September during the holy month of Ramadan where all Muslims are required to fast from sunup to sundown including refraining from any liquids? Whether he’s President or not, he needs to get to packing for the Hajj. Once Muslims have the monetary means (given campaign contributions he definitely does) they need to make that one pilgrimage to Mecca. Forget about the fact that he has been going to the same church for 20 years or so, he could have just decided to lie about his faith way before this election. Come to think of it, all the cabbies in Abu Dhabi are very open about how the back Barack. Maybe he is one of them… If Obama is a Muslim, ignoring most of the pillars of Islam wouldn’t earn him any points with Allah and I recently found out that they do keep score. Plus, he doesn’t strike me as a man that would do anything half-assed.

Back in Dhabi

It’s amazing how different things seem once you’ve been there done that. As I disembarked from the airplane, I tried to remember how I felt the first time I landed here. Even though I was alone and my ankles were swollen (glad Nate wasn’t there to critique my new cankles) I felt so comfortable this time around. I thought about my cousin Ana’s upcoming visit and how she told me that if I wasn’t there the second she got off the plane she would start crying. I didn’t cry when I first arrived, but Michael and I were very relieved when we saw the driver holding the “Mr. Michael Johnson” sign. When you are in a new place nothing can replace the notion of having somebody, just anybody, waiting for you. Another difference is that I now have my pregnancy belly. I was allowed to go through the Emiratis and GCC (countries around the Arabian Gulf) nationals only line to clear immigration along with other families with children. That’s a perk we don’t get in the states! My belly is like a VIP pass into a member’s only club. The men at the grocery store were so friendly! I was like “Nice to see you too Mr. Vegetable Weigher Man”! Yes, you have to have someone at the produce section weigh all your fruits and veggies here before you go to check-out. A lesson I quickly learned after standing in line forever only to have the cashier look at me like I was crazy before she sent me back to the weighing station. Today, my belly got me a wink AND a thumbs up (which I’m all about) from an Emirati woman! I was so excited! Finally, acknowledgement and communication! There was another Emirati woman holding a new born so I complimented the baby and smiled pointing at my bump. My friend told me I should have congratulated them on the fact that the baby was a boy, since of course having a boy is a much bigger deal than having a girl here. I am having a girl- and proud of it! So, being pregnant allows me to connect with local women who seem excited to see me fulfilling my role in society. I think men are more comfortable talking to me now as opposed to earlier when I could have appeared to be a single woman. Or as my friend Mel pointed out, it could just be that my breasts are larger now! Either way, I have enjoyed the extra smiles.

A-Town Count Down

Wooo-hooo! We’re heading to Hotlanta in October. A great month for beautiful fall weather and what we seem to miss the most- football!! We arrive on Saturday October 4th, after spending a couple of nights with our good friend Mark in Amsterdam. I’m hopeful that we can push through the jet lag to meet up somewhere like Stats to watch whatever games are on. Just the sound of the whistle and sports commentary in English will be a welcomed change. (I’ll do my Arabic impersonations of the US Olympic basketball game commentary later.) On another note- my hard drive is dead so my computer access and therefore blogging abilities are very limited now. The good news is, I can catch you up in person! Can’t wait to see all of you and meet some of the new additions to your families! Go Gators!

Wifestyles of the Rich and Famous

I know, I know. Everybody wants to know what I do all day. Well, its not just me. There are hundreds of us "wives". Some older, some young. Some married for many years and whatever job their husbands took is part of their retirement plan while others are trying to jump start their careers. Then there's the group that is smack in the middle and just trying to shake things up a bit. Whatever the circumstances, we are all here because of our husbands. Many who are engineers, construction managers or business men working for oil companies. So what is it that we do all day? Judging from my own experience and the information that I've gathered...We wake up. Read the paper. Do the Sudoku puzzle. We blog and keep in touch with our friends and families. Do the laundry and find homes and decorate them. On Tuesdays and/or Wednesdays we meet for "coffee mornings" at ten. We pay 25 dirhams to get together with the larger group. We welcome the new wives and sympathize on what they must be feeling. We have lots of advice for them and can answer questions such as, where do I get my nails done? What grocery store do you like? Have you found a good sushi place? And the big one, do you know of any open apartments? There is a huge shortage here due to the growing population of foreigners. We exchange phone numbers with people that we like or those who seem especially resourceful. I like her a lot plus she speaks Arabic. We get personal right away. Like when I asked, "Have you found an OBGYN here? I think I might be pregnant." The women in charge of the coffee mornings share their various announcements. I heard about Ramadan rules for the upcoming month, who needs to sell what, and even some job opportunities. We also get information about upcoming excursions. This is how I got to see the Grand Mosque with a tour guide and plan a weekend getaway to Jebel Dhanna and Sir Bani Yas Island with a small group. I even landed a free defensive driving course in the Dubai Autodrome. After we mingle for a bit, we have lunch with our core group of friends. These are the women I get together with the rest of the week. We talk about what we are making for dinner and try each other's recipes. We grocery shop together and tell each other when we find something unusual. (I shared when Michael found grits at the Lulu Hypermarket in Khalidiyah) We exchange books and DVDs. These are my girls. Apart form my family, they were the first to know I am expecting. They've driven me to my doctor's appointments and hugged me when Sherlock was put down. The first time Pattie, Gina, Mel, Patty and I lunched together, we talked about our B.A.D. lives (Before Abu Dhabi). I heard about their careers and families and shared with them how I am a National Board Certified teacher with nice job lined up before we came here. Mel used to travel the world opening up call centers and Patty worked for the same company for 20 years. You can imagine the bonding. The importance of having others know of all the things we did or accomplished before taking on the sole role of wife. Sharing just how it was that we all came to the decision to leave the United States to come to the United Arab Emirates. We are all American and until I came here, I don't think I realized just how American I really am. The majority of the women here are from the U.K. and for some reason they kinda stick together and we do too. Of course there are exceptions, but I had never stopped to think about the cultural differences between Americans and Brits. Some of us get pregnant. Some of us get jobs and some are still trying for either. Not everyone is here for the same amount of time. Gina left after 90 days and I teared up. We made promises to meet again either here or there. Two days before that, Suzy came back, and that's just how it goes. We introduce our husbands and hope they get along as well as we do. They discuss their experiences in the office and the pressures to meet the somewhat unattainable demands of the client. We all have a good laugh, sharing our recent experiences with locals or taxi drivers, feeling glad to have found each other here.

Al Ain

The freedom of having our own car! No more taxi drivers for at least a few days. They are not quite like a box of chocolates, but you never know what you're gonna get. Sometimes, they are kind, know where they are going and make conversation in their limited English. Other times, they don't understand you at all. If they feel frustrated enough, they may ask you to get out of the car or start waving their hands dismissively and yelling in Arabic. This happens more often in what I call the "stinky" cabs. There are two kinds. The gold and white taxi is cheaper, older and has the well-defined scent of a car that has hosted sweaty people for years. The smell is ingrained in the upholstery. One of my favorite rides in a stinky cab was when the driver positioned himself directly in the flow of the AC blowing all the man-smell from his underarms towards me. It felt like one of those movie scenes where the hot chick is standing in the wind with her hair and clothes swaying gracefully- but not. Although he did have flowy garments on... After that, I began carrying lotion in my purse to sniff throughout my rides. The advantage is that those drivers have been here longer, so they know where they are going. But, sometimes they want to bargain for the cab price instead of using the meter and I've already shared what happens if they lose their patience. Also, there are the new silver cabs -fancy and more expensive (by a couple of US dollars). The drivers are nice but clueless since some of them have been here less time than I have. I end up giving directions in my new broken English "at signal- left, now stop, Stop!" The driving is something else. Left turns from two lanes over from the left-turn lane and lots of honking. I've seen worse in the streets of Buenos Aires, but for some of my friends, every cab drive feels like a life threatening experience. Needless to say, when we rented a Toyota Yaris for our out of town trip to Al Ain, Michael and I felt a complete sense of ownership over our destination. Armed with our road map to the UAE, we headed for the "Garden City" known for its greenery and natural oasis. On our one and half hour drive, I had my first experience with the desert. I was amazed by how soft and orange the sand dunes looked. They went on for miles since there is literally nothing between Abu Dhabi and Al Ain. When the weather cools down, we are both looking forward to going on a desert safari to see what its like to be in the desert and not just drive past it. Al Ain is the second most important city in the Emirate of Abu Dhabi. It is also the birthplace of former president Sheikh Zayed and has museums we thought could teach us some things about our new place. Our first stop though, was the camel market. You've probably heard Michael talk about his interest in this animal and we could not wait to see them face to face! We had heard rumors of people not being able to find the place, but we persevered and...you'll see! The captions on the web album will tell you the rest of the story. To get the full effect make sure you click on "view album" to start from the beginning! All in all the trip was a success in that when we returned to Abu Dhabi we felt like we were coming "home". Sometimes you have to leave to appreciate what you have.

Yabu Dhabi Duuudes!

Where my ladies at? Michael calls it the Abu Dhabi sausage fest and my UAE book confirms it: at least 73% of the adult population is male! I think the percentage is higher over the summer because those who can, leave. I've learned that society is divided into three parts: the Emiratis, the "first world" expats, and the "third country" nationals. Please note that I did not come up with these terms. Apparently they are used in contracts and are part of the language here. Most of the expats who are here for an extended period of time, come with their families, but the third country nationals, come to work alone and send money home. The majority that I've encountered come from India, Pakistan and I have seen both men and women from the Philippines.

I am used to it now, but when I was first walking around, I felt intimidated by the fact that at any given moment, I was the only woman I could see. Given my Law and Order SVU training, you can imagine some of my fears. I found comfort in my kick boxing abilities. :)

I did find my girls in various social clubs, such as the Abu Dhabi Ladies and Expat Woman. I attended a couple of "coffees" and noticed that I am the only dark skinned person in the room. The only reason I paid attention to this, is that for my own comfort and safety, I want to look, act, and talk like a westerner so that (to put it bluntly) I am not mistaken for somebody's Indian maid. Michael and I were warned on our first night here that Emiratis (especially the men) can get away with anything here and that the law sides with them regardless of who is at fault. I was also advised that people tend to be slightly intimidated by westerners. Only the Indian cab drivers ask me where I am from, confirming that fact that I look way more Indian than I do Argentine (no matter what my Mom tries to tell me when I share these thoughts with her). I think I pull off the USA look easily with my dark sun glasses and "don't mess with me" attitude, even when I am walking to yoga in my work-out clothes. My idea about possibly blending in over here has backfired because unless I am wearing a black abaya (full body covering) and shayla (head covering) and can pass for an Emirati woman the rest does not seem to go in my favor. It may be the areas I have explored. I am hoping to expand by visiting the Damas Latinas for example, or having dinner with my Gator friend and his Indian wife.

I did enjoy a nice tour of the Zayed Mosque which was organized by the Expat Woman and I will add my pictures for you to marvel at the architecture. Although, I am afraid it is impossible to do it justice with a camera.

By the way, is anybody reading this?

Oh and Pizza Hut is just as bad here as it is there - no extra exotic toppings.

FAQs

Some of you have asked me little questions here and there so I figured I would post the answers for all. Feel free to take your time reading. No need to get through all of this in one day! :)
What can you wear?
After walking around, I have discovered that you can wear whatever you want. There are so many foreigners here that anything goes. The malls are full of Western and European stores carrying the latest fashions. The issue is how much attention you want to draw to yourself. I've been sticking to capri pants and tops that cover most of my shoulders. There is no way I would take a shawl anywhere right now because of the heat. I continue to be intrigued by the Emirati women who are covered in black and carrying Gucci purses.
What's the weather like?
Anybody who tells you that in Abu Dhabi you have dry desert heat it lying! Yesterday it was 115 degrees and humid. It is less humid than in the ATL, but still - it's hot! My UAE book says that you can experience up to 100% humidity all year round, even though it does not rain. We are in the middle of summer, and you can expect to be drenched in sweat every time you step foot outside. The heat slaps you in the face and at certain times of the day it is unbearable. The mornings are decent and apparently the Shamal wind, which originates in Pakistan and blows through Iraq and Iran, keeps things breezy at this time of year. I jogged along the water and didn't pass out! I've never been one to sweat just walking around, but I do here! It's all about the sweat-shower-sweat-shower rotation and my only goal is not to stink - ever.
Does the sky ever turn blue?
This was my question for Marshall, Michael's co-worker. He has been here for 7 weeks and has yet to see a blue sky or a drop of rain. A constant haze covers the cloudless sky and apart from all of you, I think I miss the sky the most.
Can you go to the store, grab a 6 pack, and come back to the room?
No. I can take a cab to African and Eastern (A&E) and buy a case of either Bud, Miller, Fosters, Heineken, Strongbow (yay), Corona and something called Elephant beer for 116 dirhams ($32). The store also sells reasonably priced wine from around the world, including Argentine malbec, and hard liquor. I asked, and there is no limit to how much you can buy and no tax. Its packed in an unlabeled black bag that makes you feel like you are doing something wrong. You also can't take it in your car without a personal liquor license so you have to go in a cab. The Elephant beer was on sale and Michael wanted to try it. It is Danish and has a 7.2% alc by vol so regardless of the first sip, by the end of the 16 oz can, it goes down nice and smooth! My trip to A&E was my first solo cab ride and you can imagine me carrying a case of beer and two bottles of wine in a black plastic bag and waiting for a cab in 115 degree heat! Anything for beer, right?
Hows Michael's job?
Michael has been working his butt off. He goes in around 7 and leaves around 6. He is still working on getting the ball rolling and things are getting better every day. He needs to get his team on the same page since they come from different parts of the world and do things in a slightly different way. He also works with locals that are very inexperienced and need a lot of extra guidance. Of course, they are already way behind on the project, so who knows how long we will actually be here. To keep him grounded, there is a poster of Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan al-Nahyan (Zayed the Great) right in his cube! He was the first president and is seen as the founding father of the UAE. He was president for 33 years and his picture is everywhere. Michael was told that he could take it down, but he would not dare. Don't you all want George Washington looking over your shoulders? :)
Can we watch football?
The Gator Nation spreads far and wide. I met my first Florida Gator at the local supermarket! I've never felt more at home. He was there with me in 96 (the good old days with Danny and Steve). He gave us his card and we hope to get together with him and his wife. Could be our first non-office related friends! The sad part- he said there is nowhere to watch football here. Fortunately, one of Michael's co-workers is a huge SEC fan and has a Sling Box set up at home. He has promised that we will watch all the games (in real time) at his apartment!
How's the food?
I'm still exploring this and do not want to report prematurely. I asked one of Michael's Emirati co-workers to suggest local places to eat. The guide books and magazines cater to expats and focus on restaurants in hotels which are excellent, but I want to get down and dirty with local cuisine. She made me a spreadsheet and I'm excited to eat my way through it! When it comes to eating, you know I like to be thorough.
What are the typical toppings in a Subway sub or Pizza Hut pizza?
We've been wondering the same thing! Michael is hoping for lamb pizza, but I'm not sure. I'll let you know by the end of the week!


All in all, for having been here a week and a half, I feel pretty good. We're still getting situated and figuring out the basics like getting cell phones and learning which hole to put the laundry detergent in on these European washing machines. Things I had down pat before like which aisle has what in the supermarket need to be re-learned. Everything is new and mentally and emotionally stimulating. Some things are becoming automatic again like finding my way back to the hotel from various parts of the city and turning right when I get off the elevator to walk to my room. Slowly but surely, Hilton room 609 is becoming home and we've even entertained our new friends - twice!



Lots of love and peace in the Middle East! (seriously)

Vacon

Of course I'm going to start my blog talking about food. It just wouldn't be me if I didn't. Vacon is a term my good friend coined when I shared with her that this morning Michael and I ate Veal Bacon for breakfast. Looks like bacon- tastes like vacon and believe it or not, it does the trick.

Yes- we are now in Abu Dhabi and Atlanta, Georgia feels far away. By popular request, I am starting this blog and here comes my disclosure. I will never claim to be an expert on this city, country or culture nor would I want you to think that my experiences would be your experiences if you came. As in- you may not get to try Vacon and more importantly you may not feel what I feel or think what I think while I am here. I am worried about representing this place for you and feel a sense of responsibility. What you will read are MY thoughts, opinions, feelings, and experiences that should by no means be the end all be all on Abu Dhabi. If you happen to compare notes with others, please share so all of us can benefit from different perspectives.

We have stayed around our area these past couple of days. It has taken a while to recover from the trip and the time difference. Last week I found myself sleeping all day and staying up all night. It was great for chatting with friends (those of you who have gotten on Skype- nudge, nudge) but it did not make for good exploring. Now I am even sleeping through the 4:30 am prayer call from the nearby mosque!

Since we are taking lots of pictures, I have created a Web Album. Click on the album to view a larger version of the photos and their captions. I think you can even order prints Mama J! :)